I was raised the poorest that can be raised
but you can’t give up, you got to keep going. I didn’t I was poor, we didn’t
have no running water. There’s nothing in our house when I was senior highschool
and I wouldn’t quit. That’s how you gotta be in life, you got to not quit. The best
information I ever got, my daddy told me. He said, I wan’t you to watch T.V.
tonight son, barbara walters is gonna interview the richest man in the world, Jay
Paul getty from England. He said, you might learn something. So I listened and
she was popping questions to him and he was answering. Finally, he got enough of
her, he said, Babara, I don’t know anything, but I’d make a phone call and tell
you all you wanna know. That let me know the richest man in the world don’t
know everything either, but he know who did though, that’s all you got to know
in life. Nobody knows everything. I was about 12 or something like that and
Harold Brown was outting the woods and I
was watching the woods fight, then someone said, that’s Harold Brown one of
best cockfighters there are, so I said, I got to introduce myself to him and I did,
and he said well do you wanna go to a fight? I’ll take you to the fights with
me. And so I starded, and he was one of the laziest people on earth but he was
smart. I listened to everything he taught me, I listened and he taught me how
to train the roosters, how to hold the roosters, how to do everything. Everything
he done was perfect. But he wouldn’t have no mercy on you. You better do it
right, or he’ll snatch your head in two. Every breed I’d ever seen was an
accident and the ones, roosters I ever bred in my life too was an accident. The
butchers is one, Edgar was a terrific rooster man and he would cross it here
and back. Curtis had it walk in his barn and his cow had stepped on it’s foot. It
had bumble foot, so he gave the rooster to Curtis. Curtis bred him and whooped
everybody with him, that made bumble foots and that was a famous breed back
then. And every famous breed I got to see them chickens were crossed up. None of
them had no pure nothing. And the clarets were an accidental mating. I had this
claret rooster when Mr. Griffin died, and he would keep sparring good, and I said,
I’m gonna fight him and ‘til I fight him in Lousiana, we bet a lot of money ‘cause
he knew the claret was good too. That claret whooped him easy so when I came
back home, I had told my wife that the roundheads goes to sett’n to put him out
in some pens out there and to the sale so I was thinking where I can breed this
rooster to. I got to breed it to somebody, to some chickens and so I kept watching
them clarets. They were all in them pen with them roundheads. My wife had put them
in a pen. So I said, well they’re cleaan and it’s late in the year. I’ll just
put in the pen everyday and move it and that was the best chicken I ever raised.
And another thing, people say you got to have high altitudes for chickens well
that’s wrong. Wow, why? Mr. Griffin was right in the ocean, he lived in mobile,
alabama. Ocean … and also Mr. Kelso, he lived right around the ocean too. That’s
what I’m talking about. And also the guy who had the japs, he lived down the ocean
too. So there ain’t nothing wrong or good about that height, ‘cause I tell you,
the three best chicken people I know of all lived the ocean. So you gotta go by
results. Never quit trying and always listen to sound advice and never quit
learning. If you quit learning, you’re all through with. Somebody says
something that makes sense, I listen, I don’t think that and most of them chick
fighter know everything and them’s are the ones that don’t know nothing. You got
to learn everyday of your life and you got to improve. Things improve and you
got to say up with that. That’s all I can tell anybody.
Thứ Năm, 26 tháng 9, 2019
Thứ Bảy, 7 tháng 9, 2019
FOWL TALK
By Floyd Gurley - The Gamecock 3-1985. Vol. 47, No. 11
By Floyd Gurley - The Gamecock 3-1985. Vol. 47, No. 11
FOWL TALK
By Floyd Gurley - The Gamecock 3-1985. Vol. 47, No. 11
THE PURPOSE OF BREEDING IS TO produce the best possible pit cocks and brood stock that you are capable of. This is not necessarily a game of chance as a lot of breeders would have us think. With lots of hard work and planning, the scales can be tipped in the breeder’s favor. You can get much satisfaction and pride out of a breeding pen well managed. The following is a brief outline of a proven method that I have put together back when I was breeding and fighting a lot of cocks. This method is for a breeder who is able to spend lots of time with his chickens. I can guarantee you a certain amount of success if it is followed. Any successful breeder must have a system that will prove the true value of his brood stock and at the same time be able to improve them year after year.
First, you must determine exactly what a particular pen is going to produce for you. We will go for battle cock in this article as it is less complicated than producing brood cock. I would put from 6 to 10 hens in a brood pen, all of one family, preferably sisters. Each one should be wing and leg banded. Use a cock from a different family so that the offsprings will have hybrid vigor. This system requires trap nesting and recordkeeping of every individual in the brood pen. Each hen must have recordsheet. You must now the coefficiency of all hens as soon as possible. This was determined by me, in my case by using the following method:
When a hen goes into the nest to lay she is trapped. Take the hen out of the nest after she has laid the egg. Using a felt tip marking pen, record the hen’s legband on the large end of the egg. Then underline the number to put the cock’s number underneath. Example, 36/5 the legband, 36 representing this particular hen and the 5 the brood cock. If you are going to use a setting hen, save the eggs from the breeding hen until you have a full setting, then put them under the setting hen. After they have set 4 or 5 days, check the nest to make sure no unmarked egg has been added by a yard bird or the setting hen. If you are going to use an incubator to hatch them they can all be set together from all of your hens until 18 days of incubation. Then each individual hen’s eggs must be put in a bag made of suitable netting. The bag should be large enough that the eggs are not crowded and the chicks after hatching, have room to move. When you remove them from the incubator hey must be banded and recorded immedately before opening the next bag of another hen's eggs. This way when you fight the offsprings you will know the true breeding value of their mother and their father. I usually try to fight at least 10 birds from particular hen before I pass judgment as to whether she remains in the brood pen next year or is destroyed. Divide the number of birds fought into the number that win. This gives you the true coeffciency of the mother. In other words, say woo fight 10 fights from hen number 36. say 6 will win out of the 10. Divide 10 into 6. this gives the hen a coefficiency of 60%. If this is satisfactory to you, continue to breed this particular hen, keeping a running life-time record of her coefficiency until she is no longer of value to you as a breeder.
The cock’s coefficiency is found by dividing a combination of all the fights of this particular pen into all the wins, thus he may have, say, a coefficiency of 65%. Needless to say, when you figure the coefficiency of all the hens in the pen and you remove the ones with the lower coefficiency, the winning percentage of this particular hen will certainly rise. I like to replace the hens that have been removed with pullets from the hens that have a high coefficiency rating. I have found that they will not necessarily be good proited from the cock and hen do not make the perfect fighting cock, environment does The genes are the blue print mother nature has to work with. Environment can only produce what the parents have passed on to their offsprings. Both environment and breeding must are producing, say 60% winners n this means out of 100 cocks you’ 60 winners and 40 losers. If you enough to look them over close and hatchet on maybe 20 of the losers, you will raise the pens percentage from 60% to 76% one hell of an improvement. A often on in this manner should improve after year. This is a proven method; i used it for years in short heel fighting and it sure worked for me.
The coefficiency of the entire pen is the yardstick as to which hens remain in. Still using 60% as the one combined percentage of all the hens, it is quickly seen that any hen with a record of less than the 60% should replaced.
This method can used in any form of breeding. By this, i mean inbreeding or cross breeding. I like inbreeding in brood stock and cross breeding for hybrid vigor in pit cocks.
go hand in hand High grade pit cocks are a combination of first, intelligent breeding, then feeding rearing, conditioning and last but not least, handling in the pit. The pit is always the end product.
, (nrgot to mention if 2 hens are in the mark the eggs F which stands for egg Also mark eggs when hen lays and ge’s out without being trapped F and eas that are laid on the floor F. I have fwnd out by this method of breeding that full sisters from a very intensely inbred family, one would produce 80% winners, the other 20% winners. Therefore giving the breeder 50% wins.
If you are breeding a pen like this for battle cocks using an inbred cock of one family over inbred hens of a different family and run across an individual with a very high coefficiency take her out of the pen and breed her into the inbred family she came from if she has all the other qualifications that you are using in the in- bred family. Never use a poor producer for inbreeding regardless of blood lines. Under no circumstances use an inferior individual for inbreeding but if the individual has a good breeding record you can use it in cross breeding. With this method you will find out all sorts of in-teresting things about your birds such as each hen has a laying patterns. Some will 1 day then skip a day, some will lay 2 consecutive days then skip a day, some 3 consecutive days before a skip. You will ind eggs are laid by an individual hen say for a 4 cycle hen 1st day, 10 a.m.
T00™ day. 12 noon, third day. 2 p.m. 4th °3y» then skip 5th day and start back at 8 •m and start the cycle all over again. You J . S0?r recognize some hens’ eggs by eir shape They will very seldom lay late
Iran Grn00n- D° ,e3Ve 3 heR *n
a Lday- You must check traps several es during the day — too long in trap
March 1985
SV™ ~ - •» -
chicken? for^^rs *^2 3 ,o,lows There must b? thousand?15 Hatch- called pure Hatch Most a™ S ° families breeder takes a fam.it3 ? puFe Bul1 ,f 3 breeds
them according ?lckens and tens after a few geneml h specrtica- to call them anyth,ng t£ wan^n"^
?orr yXr r:gu'
chickens came
you start breeding them\h£ a™
Warn1?0 3T ®n,rtled, the credit blame, whichever it may be . Most breeders change the bloodlines as soon as they obtain them anyway. The first thing they do is add new blood to try to improve them. When they do this they are not pure so and so’s anymore. Mr. Sandy Hatch could no more recognize the chickens called Hatch today than I can fly. Mr. Harry Kearney, when he was living, gave a friend of mine a pair of yellow-legged, dark red. single-comb chickens. A couple of weeks later he told my friend they were probably as pure a Hatch as there is in the country today. My friend was shocked and remarked. “Hatch, I thought they were Kearney Whitehackles." Mr. Kearney answered saying, after all, Hatch are nothing but Kearney Whitehackles. Who the hell knows anything about any chickens of today as to what they were years ago and what difference does it make anyway? I received these chickens from my friend and have bred them ever since. Should i call them hatch or Kearney Whitehackles or neither? At one time I bred them extensively when I was very active in fighting, I now have only a few seed. The old original cock was yellow-legged and the hen was yellow-legged, both single comb. The cock dark mahogany shewing a lot of white under he hackle feathers. The hen wheaten colored with dark neck feathers. In the first breeding we got some green legged pullets and all yellow-legged stags which shows what Mr. Kearney called probably the purest Hatch in the country today were not pure if the cock produced both green and yellow legged pullets and got some green-legged stags which looked different from their pure. I bred the cock back over his green-legged pullets. Of course, in my opinion, if they don't breed uniform, they cannot be pure. I bred the cock back over his green-legged pullets and got some green-legged stags which looked different from their yellow-legged brothers both in leg color, eye color and feather color. Needless to say, they also fought different. Would you call the original brood stock pure? Ask my friend Hugh Norman. At any rate they now, for better or worse, breed and fight uniformly due to my selective breeding.
As I said before, the end results are found in the pit and only you have any control as to what your chickens do. You could even call them by a mean sounding name but it won't help. The name may scare the other handler but it won’t the other cock.
I hope this helps someone wanting to improve his Hatch. Did I say Hatch? I
meant hatch from the incubator '
GAMENESS VS BOTTOM
I am in the midst of a cross-county debate with a good buddy who maintains that bottom and gameness are just about the same thing.
Our disagreement centers on a family of long inbred Whitehackles that will die fighting with their heads in the right dir-ection. However, it doesn’t take much cutting to kill them.
If, as I understand him to say, my friend maintains that a fighting cock must have bottom to be game. My contention is if a gamecock fights aggressively to his dead, he is game and that bottom and toughness are something else entirely.
My husband is no help at all; he says it is a question with no answer - everything is intertwined.
Will you readers of Gamecock please comment
By Floyd Gurley - The Gamecock 3-1985. Vol. 47, No. 11
FOWL TALK
By Floyd Gurley - The Gamecock 3-1985. Vol. 47, No. 11
THE PURPOSE OF BREEDING IS TO produce the best possible pit cocks and brood stock that you are capable of. This is not necessarily a game of chance as a lot of breeders would have us think. With lots of hard work and planning, the scales can be tipped in the breeder’s favor. You can get much satisfaction and pride out of a breeding pen well managed. The following is a brief outline of a proven method that I have put together back when I was breeding and fighting a lot of cocks. This method is for a breeder who is able to spend lots of time with his chickens. I can guarantee you a certain amount of success if it is followed. Any successful breeder must have a system that will prove the true value of his brood stock and at the same time be able to improve them year after year.
First, you must determine exactly what a particular pen is going to produce for you. We will go for battle cock in this article as it is less complicated than producing brood cock. I would put from 6 to 10 hens in a brood pen, all of one family, preferably sisters. Each one should be wing and leg banded. Use a cock from a different family so that the offsprings will have hybrid vigor. This system requires trap nesting and recordkeeping of every individual in the brood pen. Each hen must have recordsheet. You must now the coefficiency of all hens as soon as possible. This was determined by me, in my case by using the following method:
When a hen goes into the nest to lay she is trapped. Take the hen out of the nest after she has laid the egg. Using a felt tip marking pen, record the hen’s legband on the large end of the egg. Then underline the number to put the cock’s number underneath. Example, 36/5 the legband, 36 representing this particular hen and the 5 the brood cock. If you are going to use a setting hen, save the eggs from the breeding hen until you have a full setting, then put them under the setting hen. After they have set 4 or 5 days, check the nest to make sure no unmarked egg has been added by a yard bird or the setting hen. If you are going to use an incubator to hatch them they can all be set together from all of your hens until 18 days of incubation. Then each individual hen’s eggs must be put in a bag made of suitable netting. The bag should be large enough that the eggs are not crowded and the chicks after hatching, have room to move. When you remove them from the incubator hey must be banded and recorded immedately before opening the next bag of another hen's eggs. This way when you fight the offsprings you will know the true breeding value of their mother and their father. I usually try to fight at least 10 birds from particular hen before I pass judgment as to whether she remains in the brood pen next year or is destroyed. Divide the number of birds fought into the number that win. This gives you the true coeffciency of the mother. In other words, say woo fight 10 fights from hen number 36. say 6 will win out of the 10. Divide 10 into 6. this gives the hen a coefficiency of 60%. If this is satisfactory to you, continue to breed this particular hen, keeping a running life-time record of her coefficiency until she is no longer of value to you as a breeder.
The cock’s coefficiency is found by dividing a combination of all the fights of this particular pen into all the wins, thus he may have, say, a coefficiency of 65%. Needless to say, when you figure the coefficiency of all the hens in the pen and you remove the ones with the lower coefficiency, the winning percentage of this particular hen will certainly rise. I like to replace the hens that have been removed with pullets from the hens that have a high coefficiency rating. I have found that they will not necessarily be good proited from the cock and hen do not make the perfect fighting cock, environment does The genes are the blue print mother nature has to work with. Environment can only produce what the parents have passed on to their offsprings. Both environment and breeding must are producing, say 60% winners n this means out of 100 cocks you’ 60 winners and 40 losers. If you enough to look them over close and hatchet on maybe 20 of the losers, you will raise the pens percentage from 60% to 76% one hell of an improvement. A often on in this manner should improve after year. This is a proven method; i used it for years in short heel fighting and it sure worked for me.
The coefficiency of the entire pen is the yardstick as to which hens remain in. Still using 60% as the one combined percentage of all the hens, it is quickly seen that any hen with a record of less than the 60% should replaced.
This method can used in any form of breeding. By this, i mean inbreeding or cross breeding. I like inbreeding in brood stock and cross breeding for hybrid vigor in pit cocks.
go hand in hand High grade pit cocks are a combination of first, intelligent breeding, then feeding rearing, conditioning and last but not least, handling in the pit. The pit is always the end product.
, (nrgot to mention if 2 hens are in the mark the eggs F which stands for egg Also mark eggs when hen lays and ge’s out without being trapped F and eas that are laid on the floor F. I have fwnd out by this method of breeding that full sisters from a very intensely inbred family, one would produce 80% winners, the other 20% winners. Therefore giving the breeder 50% wins.
If you are breeding a pen like this for battle cocks using an inbred cock of one family over inbred hens of a different family and run across an individual with a very high coefficiency take her out of the pen and breed her into the inbred family she came from if she has all the other qualifications that you are using in the in- bred family. Never use a poor producer for inbreeding regardless of blood lines. Under no circumstances use an inferior individual for inbreeding but if the individual has a good breeding record you can use it in cross breeding. With this method you will find out all sorts of in-teresting things about your birds such as each hen has a laying patterns. Some will 1 day then skip a day, some will lay 2 consecutive days then skip a day, some 3 consecutive days before a skip. You will ind eggs are laid by an individual hen say for a 4 cycle hen 1st day, 10 a.m.
T00™ day. 12 noon, third day. 2 p.m. 4th °3y» then skip 5th day and start back at 8 •m and start the cycle all over again. You J . S0?r recognize some hens’ eggs by eir shape They will very seldom lay late
Iran Grn00n- D° ,e3Ve 3 heR *n
a Lday- You must check traps several es during the day — too long in trap
March 1985
SV™ ~ - •» -
chicken? for^^rs *^2 3 ,o,lows There must b? thousand?15 Hatch- called pure Hatch Most a™ S ° families breeder takes a fam.it3 ? puFe Bul1 ,f 3 breeds
them according ?lckens and tens after a few geneml h specrtica- to call them anyth,ng t£ wan^n"^
?orr yXr r:gu'
chickens came
you start breeding them\h£ a™
Warn1?0 3T ®n,rtled, the credit blame, whichever it may be . Most breeders change the bloodlines as soon as they obtain them anyway. The first thing they do is add new blood to try to improve them. When they do this they are not pure so and so’s anymore. Mr. Sandy Hatch could no more recognize the chickens called Hatch today than I can fly. Mr. Harry Kearney, when he was living, gave a friend of mine a pair of yellow-legged, dark red. single-comb chickens. A couple of weeks later he told my friend they were probably as pure a Hatch as there is in the country today. My friend was shocked and remarked. “Hatch, I thought they were Kearney Whitehackles." Mr. Kearney answered saying, after all, Hatch are nothing but Kearney Whitehackles. Who the hell knows anything about any chickens of today as to what they were years ago and what difference does it make anyway? I received these chickens from my friend and have bred them ever since. Should i call them hatch or Kearney Whitehackles or neither? At one time I bred them extensively when I was very active in fighting, I now have only a few seed. The old original cock was yellow-legged and the hen was yellow-legged, both single comb. The cock dark mahogany shewing a lot of white under he hackle feathers. The hen wheaten colored with dark neck feathers. In the first breeding we got some green legged pullets and all yellow-legged stags which shows what Mr. Kearney called probably the purest Hatch in the country today were not pure if the cock produced both green and yellow legged pullets and got some green-legged stags which looked different from their pure. I bred the cock back over his green-legged pullets. Of course, in my opinion, if they don't breed uniform, they cannot be pure. I bred the cock back over his green-legged pullets and got some green-legged stags which looked different from their yellow-legged brothers both in leg color, eye color and feather color. Needless to say, they also fought different. Would you call the original brood stock pure? Ask my friend Hugh Norman. At any rate they now, for better or worse, breed and fight uniformly due to my selective breeding.
As I said before, the end results are found in the pit and only you have any control as to what your chickens do. You could even call them by a mean sounding name but it won't help. The name may scare the other handler but it won’t the other cock.
I hope this helps someone wanting to improve his Hatch. Did I say Hatch? I
meant hatch from the incubator '
GAMENESS VS BOTTOM
I am in the midst of a cross-county debate with a good buddy who maintains that bottom and gameness are just about the same thing.
Our disagreement centers on a family of long inbred Whitehackles that will die fighting with their heads in the right dir-ection. However, it doesn’t take much cutting to kill them.
If, as I understand him to say, my friend maintains that a fighting cock must have bottom to be game. My contention is if a gamecock fights aggressively to his dead, he is game and that bottom and toughness are something else entirely.
My husband is no help at all; he says it is a question with no answer - everything is intertwined.
Will you readers of Gamecock please comment
Đăng ký:
Bài đăng (Atom)